What It Means to Come Home: Reading The Odyssey on Agistri

I’ve been reflecting on a recent trip to Greece, where I joined the London Literary Salon to read Homer’s Odyssey on the island of Agistri. I keep returning to the question: why a travel study?

Something shifts when we step away from the familiar. The ferry across the Aegean marked the beginning of that shift, old friends and new chatting in the wind, all of us quietly wondering what we were heading toward. When we arrived at Rosy’s seaside sanctuary, it became clear: this wasn’t a holiday. It was an immersion.

Each morning began with gentle yoga by the sea—our plank pose held for the span of a Shakespeare sonnet in call-and-response—then voice work with Jane to ground us in breath and sound. Evenings were for sharing food, ideas, and laughter. And in between, we read. Two-hour sessions with Toby guiding us through The Odyssey, supported by Caroline’s curated contemporary poems and insights.

Together, we travelled with Odysseus, Penelope, Telemachus, and Athena. We discussed betrayal, resilience, grief, longing, hospitality. And always, we circled back to the question: what does it mean to come home? We read The Odyssey because its themes endure, and because we endure. Penelope waits and weaves; we know what that feels like. Odysseus is clever, flawed, and longing for home, and so are we.

I had the chance to facilitate a writing session and some casual weaving. We wrote in response to the theme “I Am From”, tracing the threads of our own stories of home. We wove yarn onto rocks, creating patterns from whatever materials we had to hand.

We climbed to old churches, tasted pistachios, swam in the cold, cold sea (yikes!). We weathered wind and rain, and stood under the sun to share poems: Sappho, Cavafy, Homer, the Pope’s final letter. The youngest among us, a recent classics graduate, read in ancient Greek. The oldest read aloud from her own work.

I stood before the group to read my Penelope monologue, a piece begun for my MSc dissertation and shaped anew by the island. The sea stretched out behind me like a quilt of blues. I heard my voice—its uncertainty, and its emerging strength.

This is the kind of experience I never want to underestimate. The richness of connection, to story, to self, to nature, to each other, is something to return to, again and again. Increasingly, research supports what the Greeks knew all along: art is good medicine. And during this week, the poetry of Homer brought us together.

We walked, read, made, wrote, listened, shared. We disassembled and reassembled stories, our own and Homer’s. And by the end, I realised I hadn’t just travelled away. I had travelled toward something. Toward the part of myself that is most at home: in language, in community, in curiosity.

So, coming home isn’t always about returning to where you started. Sometimes it’s about recognising yourself more fully when you get there.

See more images from Agistri on our Gallery page.

Letter from Athens

Photo by Ayo Ogunseinde on Unsplash

Snow was falling when I arrived in Athens, which will be my home for the next two years. The hills around the city stayed white for a whole week, making the trees loaded with oranges which line every street seem even more magical. The move has been complicated and much delayed, necessitating a break from the LitSalon. It’s by very happy coincidence that my first new study will be on the island of Agistri, to read the Odyssey and The Oresteia, with lots of familiar faces (and some new) joining me in my new home.    

In the meantime, I am enjoying Athens’ incomparable museums before the onslaught of summer visitors.  Museums, like literature, have always captivated me – just as words help us to make sense of the past, objects can do something similar, bringing us a closer connection to history.  

For a lover of the Homeric legends, the National Archeological Museum is the highlight of an Athens visit. The first two rooms house the contents of the graves from the palace at Mycenae, including the famous gold ‘Mask of Agamemnon’. Here are the hauls of treasure that Odysseus kept acquiring and losing, which Homer described so meticulously even though, a hundred lines later, they would end up at the bottom of the sea. They are gleaming inside their glass cases, seemingly ready to be loaded on to a ship.  

There are gold drinking vessels, tripods and bowls for mixing wine, all of them splendidly decorated. Objects made to be desirable as well as useful. Real hands lifted these cups, or wound the strands of gold beads around their necks and admired themselves in mirrors shaped like lotus flowers. Everything is rich with detail, even the smallest objects contain secret worlds. The blade of a knife is inlaid with a picture of a striped cat stalking water birds, a large gold signet ring shows a masted ship with full crew and two couples hailing it from the shore. Although so much of the Odyssey is fantastical, a myth, the people that Homer sang about never seem more real, or more like us, than when looking at the treasures they collected in life, and brought with them on their journeys to the afterlife.  

When the weather turned sunny and warmer a few weeks after we arrived, we spent Saturday on Aegina, an island familiar from last year’s study – the whole group made a day trip to see the temple there. The tables and chairs where we had a long, lingering lunch were all packed away for the winter, but the museum was open. Everywhere in Greece has museums, and even the tiniest are full of treasures. One of my favourite objects is here, a terracotta jug from the 6th century BC showing Odysseus and his companions escaping form the cave of Polyphemus.  I like it even more because, compared to some of the other objects on display, it’s not particularly well made: the painting is pretty crude, cartoonish. It is probably best described as fan merchandise – somebody bought it because they thought the Odyssey was really, really cool.  I feel the same way!

This time in Athens has given the Odyssey and Oresteia such a fresh new context, and has already increased my anticipation of sharing the joy of reading them when the study starts.

See you in the pages!

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