Days on Agistri

Photograph of Toby Brothers on Agistri by Sandrine Joseph, @london_lost_in

As we wrap up another sparkling Salon week at Rosy’s Little Village (a name that doesn’t do justice to the place), I reach to capture the enriching moments that make this immersion so fulfilling. 

It is, of course, a luxury to spend a week immersed in one work of literature.  To do so on a wooded Greek island in the Saronic Gulf is pretty extraordinary. Our venue provides a unique community feel: just minutes from a humming port, Rosy’s Little Village offers all we need to sustain us through our days of reading and discussion, and it is a simple amble down through the flower strewn terraced rocks to the sea.

Going away. The upheaval of habit, the reckoning of what you really need (and how that can fit into the limits of baggage), the many details of home leaving that brings you to some clarity about how complicated life is—how many daily tasks need to be passed along, how the build-up of things undone needs reckoning to be able to leave with some lightness . . .

But when all that is done—or, at least, done enough—the lightness that you have earned as you step off the plane, find your way to the ferry, drink deeply of the sea-fed air and let the intense sun of the Saronic gulf envelop you: this is where the release begins. 

In the first week, the Odyssey study rolls out with sessions of reading and discussion, exercises to develop our attention to breath, language, presentation, embodiment of the text and a sense of play; poetry interludes allow us to explore as a group —sometimes discussing, sometimes just sitting in wonder at the craft. Everyone finds their own rhythms around the scheduled sessions and nourishing meals. For some, it is early morning walks to the wild headlands to seek alpine swifts skimming over the sea. For others, it is an early dip to greet the dawn and her rosy fingers. For others, it is Jane’s gently guided yoga practice where the sun salutations feel like an intimate encounter with the glistening light that floods us from the open space of the performance tent. For others, it is painting or writing or reading time in a nook of the flowered rocky terraces. 

Photograph of dawn on Agistri by Sandrine Joseph, @london_lost_in

In this fresh world, I find my mind unclenching as the days simplify. This makes a fecund space in which to consider ancient and profound works. No matter how many times I have encountered the monsters and sought Ithaca with Odysseus, I open myself newly with each group and learn more—about the epic, about myself. S points to the way Homer makes respectful space for grieving as natural, as necessary; SJ wonders if the journey shows how the structure of home can be psychological – a space that moves with us – can you, snail-like, be your own home and therefore make peace with a travelling life? Others are amazed at the immense staying power of an oral text: interactive and shared in the group, these passages become chants that we embody. 

In the second week we encountered the Oresteia with a seasoned group—many of whom had been on the previous year’s Odyssey study. This was my second encounter with the dramatic trilogy, first studied on a long weekend in the outskirts of Paris. I gained such rich nuggets from the work on Agistri with this particularly game group. I learned what stichomythia is, how it functions in the dramatic context and, finally, how to pronounce it.  I watched Jane coach the group into speaking as one voice, and witnessed the pulse of power that group chanting creates. There was also the special sonnet recitation while planking, but that really needs to be experienced to be appreciated . . .

We considered the strange and primitive drive for justice—when is it revenge, when is it punitive, when is it restorative? We discussed the various ways of understanding the resolution of the Furies into the Eumenides: what it suggests about the role of female deities, how this moves towards democracy, whether this is the submerging of matriarchal power into patriarchal authority. We considered the right of a mother to rage against the needs of communal security when faced with the murder of her child. We read together the astonishing poetry that the Oresteia has inspired since its first performance and, after inhabiting rage and vengeance performed in the most majestic language, we danced a jig of life to celebrate our return to the clear light of present-day sea-soaked space.

To immerse myself in one work, for one week, with a curious and playful gathering of minds is truly a luxury. We come together, we question, disagree, explore, inspire and laugh together. Sometimes, we even dance.

Here is some feedback from participants:

“The Odyssey study on Agistri island has been a total marvel . . . It was on every level nourishing, emotional, spiritual and always caring . . . The island is beautiful, especially in Spring, you can swim, go kayaking, walk to the village and go hiking in the pines trees forest. Looking forward to going again!”

SJ

“To sit by the Agean and delve into the mysteries of Homer’s Odyssey, expertly facilitated with an intimate group was such a treat!  Learning about meter, oratory performance, Greek history and mythology with breaks to dip into the blue was heaven.  I think what I enjoyed most though was the extraordinary community formed over the week-long study.  Looking forward to the next one!”

SC

“What more can I say than that it was once again fabulous in every sense of the word!”

JG

“I love Rosy’s; it’s peaceful, beautiful and uncomplicated. The location and access to the sea are both amazing.”

ST

Proust in Paris with Toby – January 2023

“Let us be grateful to the people who make us happy; they are the charming gardeners who
make our souls blossom”

Of course I didn’t make that up.  It’s one of Marcel’s quotes which, I think, sums up the glorious weekend we all had in the City of Light (and not a little rain too – just enough to make us appreciate the gorgeous blue sky on Sunday).   

We all saw so much, eyes wide open and heads spinning with pages of handwriting, scrawly, spidery, crossings out, reworkings, work in progress.  We looked at photographs, information, paintings – so many paintings, books, artefacts and yes, even exquisite embroidery.  Painstakingly stitched and secured pearls and sparkles on fabrics woven by fairies, spun by silkworms and coloured by artists much greater than Elstir.  The purple opera coat which our man from the hotel said was too heavy for his wife to wear.   What a lark! As VW’s imagination might have said. 

We threw ourselves into Marcel’s world of suffering and lethargy, neurotic creativity, excess, music, madness and memory.

We definitely achieved our 10,000 steps each day.   And let’s not forget the food which was so central to our study (ha ha!) and sustenance.  We tasted foams, pearls, shavings and aromas of fermented Iranian lemons, liquorice.  We ordered  perfect scallops languishing in sea salty green puddles of unctuous who knows what? Fricassee and blanquette de veau, frites and farm cheeses. And the soufflé – the melting chocolate middle of the perfect sugared cake, the framboise birthday panna cotta with only  one candle to symbolise the hundreds of candles representing Toby’s circle of curious readers.  The metro carriage where everyone, almost on the dot of midnight sang Bonne Anniversaire to the amazing teacher who dreams up these treats for us all.  Did I say there was wine?   There was. Bien sûr!!

Le Swann Hôtel Littéraire was a treasure. “I created the Sociéte des Hôtels Litttéraires to share my love of books with the thousands of visitors whom I do not know, but who, I am sure, would be happy to find an author or a book by chance on a trip to Paris.”  (not to mention many other French cities) explains Jacques Letertre, President. 

Monsieur L came to talk to us over tea and madeleines.   He reminded me of a plump, pink, favourite uncle from Dickens.  This former banker and très sérieux collector of Proust books and much more, lives in an apartment in the factory where Marcel’s favourite coffee beans were roasted. The hotel, he told us, still serves coffee from the same company.  It is situated in the heart of the area where Marcel lived.   

The hotel madeleines however (this is a hotel with sweet cakes and excellent breakfasts) are, he admitted, slightly more ordinary.  The original moulds and recipe from Remembrance etc proved too expensive   They are, trust me, perfectly delicious for the weary, sugar-deprived Proustian  visitor whose head  is swirling with Albertine, Charlus, Swann and Odette.  They are what Francoise would have given everyone before they set off for a morning at the Bibliothèque Nationale or the Jacquemart André where, we were assured, 1000 guests could attend a soirée with no danger of one barouche crashing into another on the grand drive to the entrance.      

By the way, we all had rooms with names of characters from the volumes.  As probably the oldest participant, perhaps it was fitting that I was aunt Leonie….aaaargh!    I must rise from my couch and exercise… and, to quote MP “try to keep a patch of sky above your life”.  

Others must relate the Musée Carnavalet.  I only have the delicious photos and reports from the WhatsApp group.    I ran out of steam and time, filled my rucksack with mustards, fig jam and memories, hailed a taxi.  No porter or Françoise to report that “Madame has gone.” 

Going away with Toby on one of her magical study holidays – because, no apologies, these are holidays from everything you do and think about in real day-to-day life, is possibly a form of internet dating.   You don’t know who you will meet.  But you know it could work because there is a common theme.   We are all Toby’s students.   For me, meeting up with Proustians 1,2,3,4,5,6 – who knows how many! – was such a joy.   Crossing paths with new friends who have no ‘baggage’ apart from the carry-on kind, with wheels.  

Perhaps the best treat of all was getting to know some of Toby’s closest friends from when she lived in Paris.   Friends who have been on life’s journeys with her and continue to light up their lives. They certainly lit up ours.  

I think it was the ‘light’ in the darkest month of the year which I have taken away from our Paris adventure.  The light of everyone who was so game, so generous of spirit, who, in their own unique way, added something special to our beautiful time together.

To end on a low note… I lost my Freedom Pass somewhere along the way.   Quelle horreur! to arrive in the underground and no travel pass (young things won’t understand, a Freedom Pass allows geriatrics to go free on London tubes and buses.)   The complications of applying for a replacement online brought me back to real life with a bump, that and having to find the fridge and something to eat.   But the magic stays a little longer and I feel that Le Swann Hôtel Littéraire could be a Paris homecoming in the not too distant future.    If only Scott, who is a human Google walking map of Paris, would come along too!  Thank you, Scott, for always leading us in the right direction.

“My destination is no longer a place, rather a new way of seeing.”  

Marcel Proust

Bloomsday 2022!

So, in the centenary year of Ulysses, this year’s Bloomsday on 16th June was – perhaps slightly confusingly – the 100th (from publication) or the 116th (from the setting of the book in 1904).

Either way, devotees of James Joyce and his most famous work continue to use the day as as a reason to celebrate all things Joycean and in particular the fabulous characters that populate Ulysses, most notably Leopold and Molly Bloom and Stephen Dedalus. Below are some of this year’s highlights for the LitSalon.

‘Bloomsday’ by Nick Midgley on RTE Radio 1

Nick Midgley’s radio play Bloomsday, dramatising the relationship between James Joyce and his brother Stanislaus and their time together (with Nora Barnacle) in Trieste, was broadcast on RTE Radio 1 on Sunday 12 June and can still be heard online.

The Bootleg Balloonatics’ Bloomsday Walk in Tufnell Park,
12 June 2022

The Bootleg Balloonatics – organiser Chris Bilton, Paul Dornan and John Goudie – invited Toby Brothers to join them (playing Molly, Milly and Mrs Breen) for a two-hour recreation of Leopold Bloom’s Dublin perambulations in London’s Tufnell Park, performed for an appreciative travelling audience of around 50, ending with gorgonzola sandwiches in the Dartmouth Arms . . . Read more in the Camden New Journal here.

Bloomsday in Dublin, 16 June 2022

A group of intrepid Salonistas – including Sheila Fitzgerald, Leah Jewett, Paul Caviston, Zita Moran (to name just a few) – visited Dublin to enjoy Bloomsday celebrations in situ. The day included the Dublin Balloonatics’ Bloomsday Walk led by founder Paul O’Hanrahan, an early morning swim from the Forty Foot (that’s Toby diving in), a variety of period costumes, a visit to The James Joyce Centre, and an Eccles Cake (or perhaps it’s a toasted teacake) in Eccles Street . . . a good time was had by all!

At a specially convened celebratory lunch on the following day, Toby – who has guided so many in the Salon through this extraordinary literary journey – recited her poem about launching a new Ulysses study:

Launching Ulysses study

A new study begins…
First time faces gather in Hollywood Squares
Alarmed face asks me
Why did he come?
Courtesy or an inward light?

Will they find their way?
Will they stumble and fall into ineluctable modality of the impossible?
This reader wants into the fray, but
I’m not a believer myself, that is to say…
A believer in the narrow sense of the word.”
And I want to say:
Shut your eyes and See.

Another reader takes tentative steps forward
Her reading wobbles but Buck draws her near
“Are we supposed to like him – or not?”
In Joyce, there are no easy answers. 
In the stilted dance of Telemachus
I hope she will catch a grip
And Joyce whispers close:
That’s the bucko that’ll organise her, take my tip.”

A frustrated reader who hasn’t yet learned to swim in Jim
Scratches at the text
But it is himself he fears
Plenty to see and hear and feel yet.
The only thing is to walk,
Then you’ll feel a different man. 
It’s not far – lean on me.

I hope they will hear in a profound 
Ancient male unfamiliar melody
The accumulation of the past.  

I hope that they will hear
The chant of a quick young male form
The predestination of the future.

Look out—gender fireworks ahead
Who will stumble? O, so many rocks!
Possess her once take the starch out of her”
“O wept! Aren’t men frightful idiots!”
She does whack it, by George!
So many cocks. 

But if—o, but if they can find
The ample bed-warmed flesh

Yes                Yes        
FORWARD woozy Wobblers!
Old Ulyssians – Make more room in the Bed!

Reading Ulysses is not only a wonderful literary adventure, it’s also great fun! Our next Ulysses studies (a six-month study beginning in January 2023 and an extended ‘slow read’ option starting in October 2022) are now open for booking.

Also in Dublin . . .

Meanwhile, Salonista Geoff Strange has kindly allowed us to publish below an account of his own independent visit to Dublin for Bloomsday 2022.


The day was long, starting with a brisk walk to the Martello Tower in Dalkey, then walking the strand in Sandymount, then Sweny’s, then The National Museum and for then what we hoped to be a relieving park bench in St Stephen’s Green before our next “appointment.” But could we find a spare park bench anywhere? No! Literally all benches were occupied and occupied, I might add, by a cacophony of bonnet/boater wearing Edwardians, some of whom were even playing American football! At last, we spied a shady bench and after a dash that would impress Usain Bolt, the bench was duly nabbed! We sat and napped only to discover on awakening that we were sat opposite non other than our very own Jim! There he was, plinthed and peering back at us with those dodgy eyes of his. It’s as if he had bequeathed his very own bench to a couple of foot weary flaneurs in our hour of need!   

Suitably reinvigorated we left our bench, said bench soon to be taken up as temporary dug-out for those Edwardian garbed American footballers, and made our way to MoLI for a lecture by Paul Muldoon, Irish poet and general polymath about town. He was giving the inaugural Dedalus Lecture entitled, “Spinoza’s Shillelagh: Some Thorny Issues in Ulysses. We were treated to an hour of poetic investigation of, wait for it, the first three words of the novel. Can you remember them? Of course: stately, plump, and buck. To Muldoon, the whole book is bound within those three words. It was a fanciful and entertaining romp through Irish and Classical literature! 

The whole sixty minutes was, in a way, quite Joycean, not through design but in the way he was initially interrupted by the reggae band in the garden, then a stream of late attendees with himself, no less, showing them to their seats and then to cap it all, the gentle murmur of somebody’s mobile phone. All of us reached for our pockets but all but one was safe in the knowledge that it was not ours. For the poor eejit that discovered that it was his phone was bad enough but his woeful inability to firstly find the correct pocket and then work out how to switch the damned thing off, all the time the volume of its inane ringtone getting louder and louder, made me think of how Joyce would actually have loved this! 

After that there was only one final destination on the agenda: pints and a toasted sandwich at Peter’s Pub. No, not mentioned by Joyce but this favourite Dublin haunt of mine is so redolent of a bygone era of manners, stools at the bar and none of that musak, maybe similar to Davy Byrne’s in its heyday. As you walk in, they say “how are yer, what’ll you have,” to which the response is two pints please (no need for clarification in this boozer). “No matter, you sit down, and I’ll bring them over. Toastie?” No need to tell you the answer to that! 

Several hours later we are back on the DART speeding past Sandymount Strand with not a firework in sight! We look left across the sea denuded strand, peering into eternity. 

What a day!

Hope your day was special!

And just to say, Toby, how grateful I am to you for your amazing guidance on this epic journey. You certainly opened an old door very carefully to another way of reading and I can’t thank you enough. 

Go raibh mile maith agaibh


Calling all Joyce enthusiasts – Bloomsday looms!

Salon Director Toby Brothers & salonista Sheila Fitzgerald celebrating Bloomsday 2021

Ulysses – the story of Leopold Bloom’s day-long Dublin odyssey on 16 June 1904 – was published in February 1922, making this year’s Bloomsday the one-hundredth anniversary.

A quick reminder of some of the Salon-related celebrations taking place over the coming week (click on links for more information):

Meanwhile, a group of enthusiastic salonistas will be visiting Dublin to join the festivities on location . . .

Enjoy!

News from the Salon community

Our very own Kaye Seamer (who spans Joyce and Proust gracefully) has also sung for twelve years with the Royal Choral Society, which is staging a concert at the Royal Festival Hall on 1 June to mark its 150th Anniversary. The concert will be particularly special because the RCS gave the premier British performance of the work at the Royal Albert Hall in 1875, conducted by Verdi himself.

Tickets are available through the Southbank Centre and a 20% discount can be obtained by using the code RCSVERDI.

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